The shoebox holds maybe sixty index cards. Half are in a shorthand no one alive can read fluently, and not one of them lists a quantity. “Flour until right” is a real instruction.

I’ve been cooking through them one Sunday at a time. The failures are instructive — the dumplings that could have anchored a boat — but the successes are something else entirely: a taste I hadn’t met in fifteen years, arriving unannounced out of my own oven.

The cards aren’t recipes, I’ve decided. They’re prompts for a conversation with someone who isn’t here, and the kitchen is where the conversation happens.